Churfirsten - Zuestoll - Neue Süd (VII-)

Established in 1982, Neue Süd takes on a fairly bold line through the Zuestoll south face, without failing to follow the logical points of weakness. Apart from L5, the cruxes are very tightly bolted, and hardly mandatory. It is prudent to carry the recommended mobile pro, as some sections with cracks have been left clean. The climbing is steep, the grading stiff, and the exposure deluxe!

Gear: BD #0.3-0.75, medium rocks, 2x50m ropes, 12 quick draws incl. extensible ones.

L1  3+ The entry pitch for passionate botanists, shared by most routes. 

L2  7- Traverse hard left, short but delicate slab boulder to gain upper ledge.

L3  5+ Keep going left and aim for chossy looking corner. Dubious rock.

L4  7- Tightly spaced bolts to the left. Beefy opposition moves. Bolt in traverse misses
       hanger, bring a rock! Skip first belay on the ledge, under overhang.

L5  6- Cracks in slab, crux needs mobile pro! Extend runner around corner, if linking
       next pitch.

L6  5+ Short, but easy-to-miss hard turn after nose, don't be attracted by golden bolts
       further left.

L7  7- Sustained, steep corner, several cruxes. Pay attention to rope drag!

L8  6+ Turning point: Scramble traverse to the right, airy buldge, tricky moves into
       corner.

L9  6  Short right traverse, bouldery buldge. Extend runner at crux, if linking next
       pitch.

L10 6- Interesting face moves lead into short bouldery sections, concludes with chossy
       runout. 

L11 6+ Impressive line along slabby corner. Cruxy traverse to negotiate slab to the
       right.

L12 3+ Botanic dessert, potentially uncomfortable, if wet!

Rappel via Solitaire:
Find first anchor #10 on top towards south-east with very little descent. With 2x50m ropes you are left with ~30cm spare rope, if you go directly for belay #8.
Going for #6 would stretch it even more, but fortunately there is a (golden) belay of Alte Süd just a few meters above, towards east.
From here you can comfortably aim for #4, #1, and the base, which gives 5 rappels in total (~45min). The belays are easy to spot, as they are generally located on a big ledge.

We took many pictures, but this one sums it up perfectly!



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