Teufelstalwand - Laura (7a)

Having climbed the well-bolted limestone face-route Annika the day before, we opted for a change of styles the following day. So the name of the game was now granite and trad, which can actually both be found not far from Schattdorf, namely at the Teufelstalwand gorge. This place features an interesting co-existence of clean, and well-bolted routes, which makes it a well-frequented spot. While most parties are likely to visit the latter, such as Zeichen der Freundschaft (6b+), or Alpentraum (7a), the clean routes have also developed a respectable reputation. Eventually, we chose Laura (7a), as it appeared to us as the purest, and most consistent line: continuous cracks, no bolts (except the belays), and difficulties centered around 6c. We were not disappointed by our choice: we had a blast fighting our way up this train of splitters!

The approach from Nätschen (P.1843) to the start of the route took us about one hour. First you follow the road up north-west to leave for a path at the first u-turn. The path traverses west to P.1843, from where you need to gain about 80m in height until you reach the signs that lead to the via ferrata. From here you loose some height, following the path towards the big swiss flag. A bit below, just at the exit of the via ferrata, a smaller path leaves north to the rappel station (688690/167050).

The first rappel needs 2x50m ropes, for the last two rappels you better use the fixed ropes to avoid getting your ropes stuck, which happens quite often, apparently. The fixed ropes were still okay when we used them (Aug 2020), however for the last rappel, the rope is a bit too short, and you end up in slippery terrain, but it is manageable.

On the other side of the creek you can already see the fixed ropes, which lead the way to the starts of Alpentraum, Eternal Crack, Laura, and Florina. You pass these routes in just that order, so after down-climbing the last fixed rope you have reached the shared belay of Laura and Florina.

Valley view with Andermatt at the bottom.

L1 5a

The first pitch is quite unattractive, and really just serves to access the quality-pitches afterwards. Moreover, it is not exactly abundant with placements, which makes most of the pitch pretty much a (better-)no-fall zone. A bit spicy, given that some short sections of the pitch are quite demanding for the grade.

L2 5c

While nominally harder than the first pitch, this stemming/spraddling chimney feels much more secure and also provides more opportunities for gear. While you could be drawn to the cracks on the left, this never really seemed necessary, let alone logical to us. The belay at the end of this pitch can actually be spotted from the very beginning of the route already.

L3 7a

At first sight you might think that this perfect finger/tips corner is not even that steep. However, this perception changes pretty quickly once you fully enter the dihedral, and need to forcefully smear on the blank granite walls. Small cams (BD #0.3, DMM Dragonfly #2-4) and stoppers (2x#7-8) come in handy to protect the first part, while the upper section also takes #0.4-0.5. Here you finally get to rest on a glorious jug from which you can move into a squeeze-rest which allows you to place #0.5-0.75 to protect the balancy traverse to the belay. This traverse to the belay is quite mandatory, but maybe you could avoid it by climbing up, and lowering down again.

Looking down at the corner crack of L3 (7a).

L4 6b+

From the belay you first need to get back into the corner crack, from where you continue along a finger to hand-sized crack. A steep section in the middle provides some variety, but jamming all different parts of your body will help you out. In the context of the route, this pitch felt quite fair, even for non-cracks.

L5 6c

Pretty blank corner-crack, experts will probably cheerfully jam up the thin-hands (#0.5). After a rest-ledge comes a big corner-roof (#0.75), which breaks the flow a bit. However, it also provides a few edges for a change, which make it manageable. The crack just above the roof jams quite well, so that the remaining meters feel a bit less strenuous than the first part.

L6 6b

Adding to the repertoire of the route, this pitch offers quite "juggy" lay-backing at the start, which can even motivate some people to run it out a bit to a good rest from which easier moves, including some crumbly bushwhacking, lead to the next belay on the left (don't take the off-width to the right).

L7 6c+ 

Over a few easy steps you approach an off-width crack to the right, which represents the entrypoint for a finger-width layback up the slab. The start of the off-width could be protected by a BD #4, i.e. your first piece since you left the belay, but the big crack eats half of your body, so it feels quite secure, and you might consider leaving the #4 at home. In any case, the layback ahead offers ample opportunity for protection. Leaving the crack to the right seems a bit tricky, but you can assist the shift-over with a chicken-wing. Now you enter a pretty steep corner, which you better leave to the left around the corner before it gets too desperate. This move is well protected by #2, but communication with your partner is restricted while you are still behind the corner. The arete provides surprisingly many holds and feet, but is still quite taxing due to its steep inclination. It's best to keep the momentum, just a short break to draw a fast #4 Dragonfly. The belay at the end features only one bolt, but also takes a bomber BD #1.

Finally, at the jug in the overhanging corner at the end of L3 (7a).

L8 6b

This pitch deemed me the most sandbagged of all pitches, which is likely aggravated by the deficit in my thin-hands technique. Sure, the crack is perfect, but the corner annoyingly leans in from the left, and feet are pretty non-existent. After this tough part, the crack continues in flatter terrain, and the belay is to be found left-hand side, just on the same height as the obvious (small) spire (it is easy to shoot past the belay, if you keep going straight).

L9 6c

To approach the steep wall to the right, a few scrambly-unprotected meters need to be covered, but soon the crack takes good gear again. The first part of the crack features a powerful laybacky sequence onto a good rest, from where it is better to continue straight-in the finger-crack, which locks nicely. We left the crack to the left onto the slab-corner, however, the crack remains within reach for placements. Finally, you approach the belay towards the left over an easy slab, and eventually walking terrain. 

L10 6a

This pitch requires a last effort of concentration, because the first part does not feature any cracks, and is thus not obvious to protect. While the moves are manageable (i.e. there is something to hold and stand on), it is not exactly easy, and you better not fall before reaching the corner-crack up to the left. The corner-crack itself is quite friendly, and the terrain afterwards a bit scrambly again. The final section offers a chimney system with an interesting crossing the gap to the last belay stance, where you can also find the route book.

Note

From the last belay, climb a first step before some walking terrain. However, you are not quite free to walk back, but still need to negotiate about half of the last pitch of Alpentraum (5a). At this point we had already put on our approach shoes and coiled up the ropes, but still managed to comfortably solo this last part.

To descend, you first need to climb up along the fixed ropes. Withstand the urge to follow one of the seemingly good paths to the right, and keep going up until you reach the plateau. Besides the fixed ropes, the path is clearly visible, and often marked with cairns. From the plateau, you descend along the path and fixed ropes, eventually traversing back to the road.

After a hard day's work!

Summary

Teufelstalwand - Laura 7a (6c obl.) - 10 SL, 250m, Andreas Stadler 2016

Gear: Two racks BD C4#0.3-2, one set DMM Dragonflies #2-4, one stopper set 5-9. Nice to have: third set of C4#0.3-0.75, second set of stoppers. Optional: C4#4.

What a cool route, amazing! The crack system carries up pretty continuously, and offers many meters of steep splitter cracks, which mostly feature sizes from fingers to thin-hands. The only con whatsoever is that the corners are a bit single-sided, as they consistently face to the right. As only the belays have been bolted, purists should be rather satisfied. However, protection can be implemented very well, except in the first and last pitches. Given our limited crack experience, the route felt pretty strenuous, great practice! The wall faces towards South, which makes it quite hot to climb on a sunny summer day, but you are likely to sweat anyway ;)