Sandbalm - Bijou (6b)

Finally, a day with flawless weather forecast! A rare occurrence during this spring, which almost went by before it even started. Yet, many destinations are still (!) affected by snow, or the runnels that it causes. Judging by the webcams, I thought there might be a chance that the routes at Sandbalm (~1500m altitude, east-facing) allowed for climbing. Fortunately, we were not disappointed, even though some parts of the face had actual streams flowing down...but thanks to the instinct of the first-ascensionist the routes largely avoid these sections. Our plan was to start with the classic route Bijou, and link it with Lichtmeer, to climb a total of twelve pitches. At this time of the year, the sun gets to the base of the climbs around 7:30, and stays until about 15:30. The runnels seem to increase during the day.

The Sandbalm dome in the Voralptal at Göschenen, home to some great old-school slabs.

L1 5c
As there was still old snow at the base we traversed in at the first bolt (not really necessary, but seemed more comfortable), and started from there. Nevertheless, I lowered down to the base, and used this opportunity to calibrate my sense for friction on top-rope. In particular, I also rehearsed proper falling mechanics on slabs, as I had taken a very nasty fall several weeks ago. In my opinion, there is only one useful way to "fall" on slabs, which is to run/bounce down backwards. This worked very well for me on moderately inclined slabs, which are smooth, and even. However, if it becomes steeper, or more structured (beware of sudden steps!), this tactic has a non-negligible risk of taking a harsh back-flip as your foot gets caught, or steps into the void. If that is the case, just sliding down with your body agains the rock will probably do less damage, but I saved the practical test for when I really have no other choice...

As to the actual climbing, it is very slabby right from the start, with considerable runouts between the bolts. During the last third, when approaching the step before the belay, I hesitated for quite a bit, because the next bolt can not be seen (on top of the step, keep left), and there is only slab as far as you can see...

Looking back at pitch 1 (5c). When in doubt, run it out!

L2 6a
This pitch offers a nice change from slabs, as it climbs an arete, which is a bit steeper, but also more structured. The second half also features the characteristic shallow-knob texture, which is less nerve-wracking to climb than feature-less slabs.

Start of pitch 2 (6a): Steep(er) climbing along the arete in the center of the picture.

L3 6a
Interesting start using a vegetated crack, but fortunately the essential holds/jams were clean. After some tricky moves going left, you follow a cool (but shallow) dike. The last part climbs easily on big ledges, just mind the dirt which gets caught here.

Looking back at the easier finish of pitch 3 (6a).

L4 6a
The first bolt looms a bit far up, but the knobs are generous enough to approach it safely. In general, the dominating theme of this pitch is knobs, quite sustained, but never desperate. The belay under the roof is quite uncomfortable, and wet, better skip it and link the next pitch, which is very short anyway.

Knobby slab in pitch 4 (6a), with a little runout to the first bolt, which is still covered by dirt.

L5 6a
Passing the roof, if free-climbed, would certainly be the crux of Bijou. The topo states 7a, but this is more likely to fit the bouldering scale. We solved the riddle like Alexander the Great solved the Gordian knot - a quick pull on the draw, and on we go :) The roof could be avoided to the left, but it is very wet, and has only old pitons. The remaining, short slab is of relatively good nature, and the belay is very comfortable.

French-free start over roof in pitch 5 (6a). This short pitch finishes at the grass where the face steepens again, better link it with pitch 4.

L6 6b
Steep and delicate right from the start, with a tense first clip. Continues on small side-pulls, and leads into a delicate traverse to the right, which can be resolved surprisingly easily. Afterwards, the terrain leans back, and you can even "walk" a few meters, before it steepens again. The final crux involves mantling around an edgeless arete, spicy! The final belay is a bit hidden below some soaking bushes.

Sixth and final pitch (6b). The climber has just passed the hardest part, and engages in the tricky start of the traverse. Later, you can also see the shallow, edge-less arete which guards the final easy part.

It had taken us about 3:30 hours to top out after six beautiful, and sustained pitches. On paper, the route seems short, but in terms of quality, it is worth every meter! However, better bring a cool foot, and a cool temper for the runout slabs ;) We descended over the route, taking five rappels (skipping the belay under the roof). After a quick snack, and re-applying sun-screen, we geared up again for Lichtmeer.