Haldenstein - La Strada (6c+)

Haldenstein is not exactly known as a high end climbing area, however it holds a few gems in store. For example the four sustained pitches of La Strada offer varied climbing through the steep south-west face. Due to the low altitude, it can also be climbed on sunny days in winter, and access is no more than 10min walking from the parking lot (bring coins for fee). Protection is very good, but the obligatory sections should not be underestimated. In fact a few years ago we failed to go beyond even the second bolt...This year we visited the route twice, once early in the season, and now, shortly before Christmas. During winter, the sun will only appear on the face around 10 am.


Overview of the face, bottom-up.

L1 6c (25m)
The overture offers decent edges up to the second bolt, after which an obligatory traverse to the right follows. It is quite a crescendo, and requires sharp eyes to find the most acceptable foot holds. After this balancy test of footwork, the next few meters are covered through an easier corner with nice flakes. The exit of the corner to the right hand side marks the second test on side pulls, spiced up with the usual lack of proper feet. Finally, the last stretch to the belay is gained again via a corner, but similarly to the first one, quite doable.

L2 6c (20m)
Reaching the first bolt is already a delicate task in the relatively blank corner, but at least the clip can be performed from a bomber 4-finger/1.5-pad edge ;) The subsequent moves are good contenders for the definite crux of the route. Shifting yourself around the arête turns out quite insecure: there is virtually nothing to hold on, and the friction of the foot smears could be better. A real test of tension, foot-work, and confidence! It gets a bit easier after the inital crux, nice face climbing on edges sums it up pretty nicely. A steep and relatively juggy corner-crack tops this pitch off.

L3 6c+ (20m)
With due respect we entered the formal crux pitch, as it sent me flying a couple of times during our first visit in spring. Knowing the critical sections, it felt easier this time - fortunately :) In contrast to the first two pitches, a solid endurance helps on this pitch. While the first half follows a diagonal crack to the left, the crux in upper half traverses back to the right. Our recommendation: It really pays to take the time and look out for the best holds ;) The overhanging finish is really cool and juggy, but the mantle to the belay could be a potential heartbreaker... 

L4 6b (20m)
Short pitch with a surprisingly tricky start. The character is more slabby again, with quite interesting moves on edges, crimps, and smears.

Descent
15min walking, or maybe more convenient 2x50m rappel (maybe single rappel with 60m half ropes).

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