Multipitch Climbing Reports

Schon oft haben wir im Sommer die Vorzüge der Filderchöpf auf der Appenzeller Seite des Alpsteins für kleinere Klettertouren genossen: die Anfahrt von Zürich und der Zustieg halten sich in Grenzen, die Nord-Ausrichtung garantiert erträgliche Temperaturen und der Fels erinnert in guter Weise ans Bockmattli. Bei der Begehung der bestehenden Touren fiel uns immer wieder der freie Raum auf der linken Seite des Turms auf, sodass wir diesen bald einmal genauer unter die Lupe nahmen, um das Potential für eine neue Linie abzuklären. Und tatsächlich fanden wir einen logischen Riss-Einstieg etwas links von der Pesadilla - aber offensichtlich waren wir nicht die Ersten, es steckten hier schon (noch) einige gammelige Schlaghaken und Holzkeile. Trotzdem hatte die Linie unsere Neugier geweckt und im Sommer 2020 rückte ich für eine erste Erkundung im Alleingang an. Wandbild der Filderchöpf-Nordwand. Verdeckt durch eine vorgelagerte Felsplatte startet in der Schlucht im linken Wandteil neben der P...

The Gonzen south-face at Sargans makes quite an impression on the surrounding valley, and indeed hosts some big-wall-like lines up to 20 pitches. Still, it sits at low altitude, which makes it an interesting target for the early, and late seasons. So the route Ä guats Gfühl  (20 pitches mostly V-VI, sometimes VII)  came handy, when Miriam wished for a long, and flowy outing without the need to drive long hours from Zurich. View of Gonzen from the Pizol webcam. The approach from the parking a bit after Unter Prod (P.731)  is quite straightforward,  and covers about 500 meters in height via Cholplatz (P.1155). From Cholplatz follow the path to the west, and eventually ascend to about 1260m to reach the base of the route. L1 VI Start at the left-facing dihedral with faint lettering.  Long pitch, stretches 50m.  Immediately, my respect for the smooth Gonzen slabs was renewed, in particular as our most recent outing had been on Gneiss rock, which feels much...

Two months ago, during Easter weekend, we had already taken a shot at Lady of Dream. Unfortunately, back then I took a rib-cracking back-flip-whipper in the crux of pitch four, and we had to retreat prematurely. Having recovered, I was eager to return, and settle the score! Clearly, I was not in peak physical shape, but the Lady's foremost requirement is technique anyway. Besides, I could count on my strong partner Dave to maintain our momentum all the way to the top! Approaching the second crux of pitch 5 (6c+). You can also scrutinize the first crux in the bottom left corner of the picture.  The weather forecast had indicated some rain towards the evening, so we got up early, and left at 6 am from Mosogno. In any case, the hike is nicer in the cool morning air. As I knew the way, we took only 1 hour to reach the base, even though the ferns were about knee to hip height already. After following the yellow marks up to Piano, the traditional approach passes the huts to the right, an...

Having climbed the six pitches of Bijou in the morning, our plan for the afternoon was Lichtmeer, which offers another six pitches between 5b-6b. Another party had engaged earlier (the only other party on that day), but they had a comfortable head-start, so that we did not need to worry about being in each other's way (or so we thought). Similar to Bijou, the base of Lichtmeer is marked with a little silver plate. Due to a large block, the snow had retreated faster at this point of the base, so that we could  directly  embark on the first pitch. Still, a considerable amount of dirt covered the first few meters, but nothing that a bit of cleaning could not solve. Enter the world of old school slabs...Lichtmeer (6b) at Sandbalm. L1 5b The saving flake seems so close, but that distance (the very first meters from the ground) are a legitimate entry test. The face is super slabby, and clipping the first bolt is everything but comfortable. I wonder how you would place that bolt on ...

Finally, a day with flawless weather forecast! A rare occurrence during this spring, which almost went by before it even started. Yet, many destinations are still (!) affected by snow, or the runnels that it causes. Judging by the webcams, I thought there might be a chance that the routes at Sandbalm (~1500m altitude, east-facing) allowed for climbing. Fortunately, we were not disappointed, even though some parts of the face had actual streams flowing down...but thanks to the instinct of the first-ascensionist the routes largely avoid these sections. Our plan was to start with the classic route Bijou, and link it with Lichtmeer , to climb a total of twelve pitches. At this time of the year, the sun gets to the base of the climbs around 7:30, and stays until about 15:30. The runnels seem to increase during the day. The Sandbalm dome in the Voralptal at Göschenen, home to some great old-school slabs. L1 5c As there was still old snow at the base we traversed in at the first...