Wildhaus - Knecht Ruprecht (6a, rope solo)

With many of the usual suspects curing cold-like symptoms (Corona?), and others being unavailable, everything had aligned for another rope-solo outing. The weather looked so-so, but the excellent webcam confirmed cloudy, but dry conditions. In fact, I even prefer this kind of cloudy conditions with a mild breeze (at moderate temperatures of course ~ 10-15 degrees).

Indeed, I had been looking forward for an opportunity to climb the newly renovated Knecht Ruprecht, and its variant, Intermezzo. It seems that this thinking applies to other people as well, as I was surprised to find two teams engaged in the route on such a mediocre day (as well as one more team in Sandührliweg (?)).

Once more, it turned out as good advice to put on the helmet once reaching the face, because teams operating above, as well as ibex animals, may cause rock fall anytime. It seems this situation is more the rule, than an exception in this location!

Summary: Nice climbing at the far left of the Sandührli sector. Interesting mix of crack climbing in the lower pitches, and slabby water grooves mixed with slots & big pockets higher up. The climbing is not very slabby, at most in some short sections. The route is slightly more exposed to the typical grass pods than other routes to the right, but not in a disturbing way. So far, no signs of wear, i.e. the rock is crisp and sharp :) While well protected since the renovation, bringing some small/medium cams, and slings might be useful (I managed without, but there would have been opportunities). A steep snow field tends to cover the base of the climb for quite long, but usually the snow is slushy enough to be negotiated in regular approach shoes. Ascent time ca. 5:30 hours rope-solo (climbing every pitch twice). Given my observations on that day, some teams might expect a similar duration.

Note to myself: 70m rope is sufficient to rappel L1! (I spent some time recovering my tag line, which got jammed in a grass pod...). Tag line works fine on upper pitches when rope does not run over a ledge.

Closing hours at Schafbergwand.

L1 6a

Moderate start on nice grooves/cracks, rustical section before crux in steep corner slot.  

L2 5b
Not-so-easy crack climbing on pillar to the right. Tricky mantle exit.

L3 5b+
Delightful cruising on grooves, slots, pockets...nice and compact rock.

L4 5c
Interesting start sequence (smearing+undercling), zigg-zagging (rope drag!), tricky exit moves. 

L5 5c
Again cruising on typical rock features. Traverse before exit (low for new line, high for old?).

Intermezzo

I had only arrived at the base around noon, so it was time to head back before I could conclude Intermezzo. Good decision, because if I had pushed on, it would have turned dark with the jammed rope later on (and maybe even without it)...anyway, I felt my ambitions had been satisfied sufficiently already, and more was not necessarily better in this case.

L1 6a
Very long pitch. Well protected crux at start with two slabby sequences on "bad" holds, easier afterwards. The moves at the beginning are clearly more difficult than any other move in Knecht Ruprecht (incl. the lower sections).

Frequent comrades in the Sandührli sector.