Multipitch Climbing Reports

Schon oft haben wir im Sommer die Vorzüge der Filderchöpf auf der Appenzeller Seite des Alpsteins für kleinere Klettertouren genossen: die Anfahrt von Zürich und der Zustieg halten sich in Grenzen, die Nord-Ausrichtung garantiert erträgliche Temperaturen und der Fels erinnert in guter Weise ans Bockmattli. Bei der Begehung der bestehenden Touren fiel uns immer wieder der freie Raum auf der linken Seite des Turms auf, sodass wir diesen bald einmal genauer unter die Lupe nahmen, um das Potential für eine neue Linie abzuklären. Und tatsächlich fanden wir einen logischen Riss-Einstieg etwas links von der Pesadilla - aber offensichtlich waren wir nicht die Ersten, es steckten hier schon (noch) einige gammelige Schlaghaken und Holzkeile. Trotzdem hatte die Linie unsere Neugier geweckt und im Sommer 2020 rückte ich für eine erste Erkundung im Alleingang an. Wandbild der Filderchöpf-Nordwand. Verdeckt durch eine vorgelagerte Felsplatte startet in der Schlucht im linken Wandteil neben der P...

The Gonzen south-face at Sargans makes quite an impression on the surrounding valley, and indeed hosts some big-wall-like lines up to 20 pitches. Still, it sits at low altitude, which makes it an interesting target for the early, and late seasons. So the route Ä guats Gfühl  (20 pitches mostly V-VI, sometimes VII)  came handy, when Miriam wished for a long, and flowy outing without the need to drive long hours from Zurich. View of Gonzen from the Pizol webcam. The approach from the parking a bit after Unter Prod (P.731)  is quite straightforward,  and covers about 500 meters in height via Cholplatz (P.1155). From Cholplatz follow the path to the west, and eventually ascend to about 1260m to reach the base of the route. L1 VI Start at the left-facing dihedral with faint lettering.  Long pitch, stretches 50m.  Immediately, my respect for the smooth Gonzen slabs was renewed, in particular as our most recent outing had been on Gneiss rock, which feels much...

Two months ago, during Easter weekend, we had already taken a shot at Lady of Dream. Unfortunately, back then I took a rib-cracking back-flip-whipper in the crux of pitch four, and we had to retreat prematurely. Having recovered, I was eager to return, and settle the score! Clearly, I was not in peak physical shape, but the Lady's foremost requirement is technique anyway. Besides, I could count on my strong partner Dave to maintain our momentum all the way to the top! Approaching the second crux of pitch 5 (6c+). You can also scrutinize the first crux in the bottom left corner of the picture.  The weather forecast had indicated some rain towards the evening, so we got up early, and left at 6 am from Mosogno. In any case, the hike is nicer in the cool morning air. As I knew the way, we took only 1 hour to reach the base, even though the ferns were about knee to hip height already. After following the yellow marks up to Piano, the traditional approach passes the huts to the right, an...